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Author: Barry Pickard
Contents
Further Reading
My journey through the Basque Country was serendipitous, to say the least. I stumbled upon Eduardo Chillida’s sculptures, and what began as a chance discovery soon turned into an odyssey. The more I found, the more I wanted to explore. Each sculpture told a story, each curve and edge a whisper of the Basque Country’s past and present.
Eduardo Chillida was a renowned Spanish Basque sculptor, celebrated for his monumental abstract works. Born in 1924, Chillida’s works, predominantly made of iron, steel, stone and concrete, are a testament to his mastery and understanding of these materials, and I had chanced upon these just as the 100 years since his birth was being celebrated.
Chillida’s roots were deeply embedded in the Basque Country, a place that not only saw his birth but also became the canvas for his magnificent creations. His sculptures, scattered across the region, are more than just art; they are the embodiment of Basque history and culture, standing tall against the test of time.
Planning an independent trip to the Basque Country?
All information in this post is based on my own experience travelling through the Basque Country, backed by extensive research to bring you everything you need to know to have your own amazing experience.
Don’t forget that Tailor-Made Itineraries delights in creating bespoke self-guided tours. So, if visiting any of these Eduardo Chillida sculptures appeal to you, reach out to me by email. I would be more than happy to design a self-guided tour around your requirements incorporating these sculptures, or indeed, to design a general tour of the Basque Country.
Who was Eduardo Chillida?
Born on January 10, 1924, in San Sebastián, Spain, Chillida’s early life was marked by a promising career as a goalkeeper for Real Sociedad. However, a severe knee injury ended his football aspirations and paved the way for his journey into the world of art.
Chillida initially studied architecture at the University of Madrid from 1943 to 1946. But his passion for art led him to drop out of architecture school to study drawing at the Círculo de Bellas Artes in Madrid. He worked in José Martínez Repullés’s sculpture studio, where he created his first sculpture, before setting up his first studio in Paris in 1948. He returned to the Basque Country in 1951 where he started working with steel, a natural element of the region. He remained in the area, passing away on the 19th of August 2002, aged 78.
Guggenheim Museum Bilbao
My Basque journey began in Bilbao, and my packed itinerary naturally included a trip to the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, the beacon of contemporary art and architecture designed by the visionary Frank Gehry. It was here that I found two of Eduardo Chillida’s masterpieces gracing the museum’s exhibit rooms. I found the sculptures quite eye-catching and intriguing. This was my first taste of Chillida’s works but wasn’t to be my last!
Chillida's piece "How Profound Is the Air" combines the raw, untouched exterior of stone with a polished, architectural interior. Another notable work, "Space For the Spirit", is displayed in the same area. This piece was crafted in 1995 and showcases Chillida's unique approach to material and space. These sculptures not only embodied Chillida's artistic journey but also resonated with the Guggenheim's spirit of pushing boundaries and redefining the museum experience.
Tailor-Made Top Tip:
The two sculptures are currently displayed in Gallery 307, which can be found on the third floor of the museum.
There is plenty more to see in the Guggenheim Museum, so look to spend at least an hour and a half checking out the interior exhibits and half an hour on the art pieces outside, that surround the museum.
Esculturas de Henry Moore y Eduardo Chillida – Gernika
Another chance discovery of Eduardo Chillida’s work occurred in Gernika (perhaps better known in its Spanish language form of Guernica). I had chosen to stay in Gernika since accommodation was significantly cheaper than Bilboa and was only 30 minutes' drive from the city. I had hired a rental car for the trip, so mobility wasn’t an issue.
I spent half a day discovering the highlights of this small town, made infamous by its bombing during the Spanish Civil War. During my pre-trip research, I was aware that there was a significant sculpture, "Large Figure in a Shelter," by Henry Moore exhibited in a small park, but what I didn’t realise was that there was a large Chillida piece in the same area called Gure Aitaren Etxea (which roughly translates as ‘Our Father’s House’). The piece was commissioned by the Basque government to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the bombing and is meant to represent an open-house or boat.
Tailor-Made Top Tip:
While visiting Gernika, make sure to check out Gernikako Batzarretxea meeting hall and its stunning stained-glass ceiling, as well as the Gernikako Bakearen Museo which offers a highly informative and emotional retelling of the Gernika and the bombing it sustained during the Spanish Civil War.
San Telmo Museum, San Sebastian
After two nights staying in Gernika, followed by a stunning coastal journey, my Basque Country odyssey took me to impressive beach resort of San Sebastian, the home of Eduardo Chillida. It was, therefore, unsurprising that the city’s main museum proudly displayed one of his works.
The San Telmo Museum, which is based around an old Dominican monastery, is an engaging mix of old and contemporary art and historical collections, and Chillida’s work can be found nestled amongst other Spanish masterpieces.
Tailor-Made Top Tip:
Make sure you take in the church within the museum. The large canvases of Jose Maria Sert that adorn the walls of the sanctuary are very impressive.
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Koruko Andre Mariaren basilika, San Sebastian
Just a five-minute walk from the museum, the basilica is crammed in between the tight streets of the San Sebastian’s Old Town and the imposing Urgull hill. I arrived in the church not knowing that it displayed a Chillida piece, but as soon as I cast my eyes around this splendid sanctuary, I immediately spotted a prominent alabaster sculpture on the back wall and just knew it was another of Eduardo’s classics. It hadn’t taken me long, but I already felt that I could identify the sculptor’s signature designs.
However, I was brought down to earth very quickly as I visited the basilica’s small art gallery. Amongst the artworks, there were some smaller sculptures on display, and I felt the excitement rising within me because I knew there must be a Chillida among them. I was really getting into my Eduardo Chillida treasure hunt by now! And indeed, there was one of his sculptures! But as I looked at it, a tall, thin metal pillar with a flat top, I was so disappointed...this didn’t feel like it was a typical Chillida. It wasn’t until I looked at another sculpture that I realised that what I had been looking at was actually a display plinth, with no sculpture! Oh dear, what a fool I was.
On my way out from the church, I decided to ask the greeter at reception where the sculpture had been removed to. The lady’s face dropped, and I saw panic in her eyes – she wondered if the sculpture had been stolen! After the lady had composed herself and she began to rationalise the situation, she told me that she felt confident that the art piece must have been loaned out for an exhibition. I hoped so, because I didn’t want to be part of some international art theft scenario, starring in my very own Thomas Crown Affair.
Tailor-Made Top Tip:
The bustling narrow streets of Old Town can get quite oppressive with the crowds, so the basilica is always a serene oasis if you are looking for a break from the throng.
Read on to discover San Sebastian’s most treasured public artwork, find out what there is to see at the city’s former tobacco factory, and delight in a museum dedicated to the great sculptor himself.
Comb of the Wind
San Sebastian is dominated by its sweeping golden beaches and coastal scenery, so what better place to position what is arguably Eduardo Chillida’s most iconic artwork, the Comb of the Wind. Located beneath Monte Igeldo at the mouth of La Concha Bay, the artwork welcomes the rolling seas into the cove.
The artwork is made up of three monumental steel sculptures, each weighing 10 tons, embedded in natural rocks rising from the Cantabrian Sea. This collaboration with the Basque architect Luis Peña Ganchegui was completed in 1976 and provides a dramatic scene when the waves crash against the rocky foundations. I was grateful, however, that I did not experience this aquatic chaos, as it was such a beautiful, calm day when I visited.
Tailor-Made Top Tip:
There is another, less famous, Eduardo Chillida sculpture on the edge of La Concha Bay that is often overlooked. It is dedicated to Sir Alexander Fleming, who discovered the benefits of penicillin and can be found at the foot of the Miramar Jauregia palace.
Tabakalera
To mark the centenary of Eduardo Chillida’s birth, the contemporary culture centre, Tabakalera, hosted an absorbing exhibition, Chillida Ianean, on the professional relationship between Chillida and Jesus Uriarte, a photojournalist who collaborated with various figures from San Sebastian's cultural scene. Uriarte's unrestricted access to the artist and his studio allowed great insight into the development of some of Chillida's most significant works. I found the photographs of Uriarte shown in the exhibition fascinating.
Tabakalera is a former state-owned tobacco factory, located next to San Sebastian’s railway station, and it provided the perfect backdrop for this exhibition.
Tailor-Made Top Tip:
There are a couple of cafes on the ground floor of the building and offer a chance to sit down and contemplate the exhibitions with a coffee.
Also on the ground floor is a large, covered courtyard with an impressive contemporary chandelier. Make sure to look up when you are entering the exhibit space.
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Chillida-Leku Museum
It was not done on purpose, but my Basque Country itinerary ensured that my visit to the Chillida-Leku Museum was saved for my last full day in this captivating region of Spain. And reflecting on my Chillida treasure hunt, I think it was rather apt to build up to this visit, leaving the best to last.
This Eduardo Chillida museum is set on a wonderful rolling hillside, lined with mature beech, oak and magnolia trees, and is centred around the Zabalaga farmhouse, which dates back to the 16th century and was Chillida’s home for many years.
This Eduardo Chillida museum spans 12 hectares and features 40 large-scale sculptures outdoors and around multitude of smaller works exhibited within the farmhouse.
Tailor-Made Top Tip:
The museum is approximately 10 km from the centre of San Sebastian, in the satellite town of Hernani. If you don’t have access to a car, there are bus stops on either side of the road beside the museum entrance. The BU05 bus takes just over half an hour to connect with the centre of San Sebastian, with the termination bus stop being on Okendo Kalea, just behind the theatre.
Where to Stay
When staying in Bilbao, I’d suggest looking at accommodation near the Abando or Casco Viejo districts. Most of the city’s attractions are in these areas and you will find that you can easily experience all these highlights on foot if you are based there.
For a touch of luxury, consider staying at the Vincci Consulado de Bilbao or the Goien Boutique Hotel. Meanwhile the Hotel Ercilla de Bilbao, Autograph Collection and the Hotel Ilunion San Mamés are popular mid-range options. However, if you are looking for a budget stay there are a number of hostels, such as the Latroupe La Granja and the Ganbara Hostel.
As for Gernika, I stayed at the Hotel Boliña, which is a cheap and cheerful option, with a lovely local bar on the ground floor.
San Sebastian is a very popular, if not a somewhat pricey resort. If you wish to experience the life of one of the Hollywood stars that descend on the San Sebastian International Film Festival, book your room at the Hotel Maria Cristina. Alternatively, the Nobu Hotel San Sebastián and the Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra will also keep you in the lap of luxury.
Small pensions and apartments can be found throughout San Sebastian, but if you are looking for the hotel experience, then you will find the majority of these in the Centro district. As the name suggests, a stay in this area puts you with an easy walking distance of most of the city’s attractions. Consider staying at the likes of the Loaldia or the Hotel Arrizul Catedral. As for budget options, there are hostels available, like The City Hostel. I chose a budget option for my stay, having a very comfortable time at the Pension Aussie Guesthouse and found it perfectly located, right in the very heart of the Old Town.
Conclusion
My journey through the Basque Country, tracing the legacy of Eduardo Chillida, was an enriching and enlightening experience, and provided an enjoyable theme in which to discover the area. The sculptures offered a glimpse into the soul of the Basque Country and stood as silent storytellers. This odyssey filled me with awe, and I left the Basque Country with memories etched in steel and stories carved in stone.
Further Reading
Comment below and let us know what if you have spotted any of Chillida’s sculptures.
Don’t forget that Tailor-Made Itineraries delights in creating bespoke self-guided tours. So, if visiting any of these Eduardo Chillida sculptures appeal to you, reach out to me by email. I would be more than happy to design a self-guided tour around your requirements incorporating these sculptures, or indeed, to design a general tour of the Basque Country.
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Barry
Contact Me: tailoritineraries@gmail.com
Tailor-Made Itineraries creates one-of-a-kind bespoke self-guided travel itineraries for adventurous and curious travellers.
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