Author: Barry Pickard
Contents
If you've ever wondered where to start when uncovering the layers of Jewish history in Poland's capital, you're in the right place. Let me take you to Warsaw—not the bustling city you might know today, but the echoes of a world that was, filled with stories of resilience, tragedy, and cultural brilliance. Imagine standing in the quiet courtyard of the former Jewish ghetto in Warsaw, your fingertips tracing the weathered bricks of a wall that once enclosed an entire community. There’s the faint hum of a city in motion beyond, but here, the air feels heavy, carrying the weight of history.
As someone who's travelled independently for years, I can tell you there’s nothing like experiencing history up close. I’ve walked these streets, explored these museums, and stood at these memorials, soaking in the stories they tell. This guide is based on my personal journey, sharing practical tips and insights to help you make the most of your own exploration. Whether you’re drawn to the interactive exhibits of the POLIN Museum or the quiet solemnity of the Umschlagplatz monument, I’ll show you exactly where to go and what to look for within the area that had been previously walled off and sealed, home to hundreds of thousands of captive Jews.
By the end of this post, you’ll have a clear plan to uncover the key sites that honour Warsaw's Jewish heritage, all while avoiding the overwhelm of too much information. Ready to dive in? Let’s explore together.
Don’t forget that Tailor-Made Itineraries creates bespoke self-guided tours. So, if you would like to visit the concentration camps of The Holocaust, reach out to me by email. I would be more than happy to design a self-guided tour around your requirements incorporating these historic sites, or indeed, a general tour of Poland.
A Brief History of Polish Jews
The history of Polish Jews dates back over a millennium, with Poland once hosting the largest and most significant Ashkenazi Jewish community in the world. Jews began settling in Poland in the early Middle Ages, and the community flourished due to periods of religious tolerance and social autonomy. However, this changed after the Partitions of Poland in the 18th century, and the community faced severe persecution during World War II, resulting in the near-total destruction of Polish Jewry during The Holocaust. Since the fall of communism, there has been a resurgence of interest in Jewish culture in Poland.
The Concentration Camps of The Holocaust - Warsaw Ghetto
The Warsaw Ghetto during World War II functioned very much like an urban concentration camp. Established by the Nazis in 1940, it was the largest ghetto in Nazi-occupied Europe, confining over 400,000 Jews within a small, walled-off area of Warsaw. The conditions were dire: overcrowding, starvation, and disease were rampant. An average of over seven people shared each room, and food rations were minimal, leading to widespread malnutrition and death.
The ghetto was heavily guarded, with Jewish policemen inside and Nazi and Polish officers outside, ensuring that only those with special permits could leave. Smuggling food and other necessities became a common survival tactic, with many risking their lives to bring in supplies.
In essence, the Warsaw Ghetto was a place of extreme suffering and control, akin to a concentration camp, where the Jewish population was systematically oppressed and decimated before being transited to the extermination camps like the nearby Treblinka.
Where Was the Warsaw Ghetto
The Warsaw Ghetto was located in the heart of the city. It was established by the Nazi German authorities in the Muranów district of Warsaw. The ghetto was enclosed by a 10-foot-high brick wall, topped with barbed wire, and covered an area of about 3.4 square kilometers. Today, the area that once housed the Warsaw Ghetto is part of the modern city of Warsaw, with memorials and museums preserving its history.
If you are finding this post interesting, remember and subscribe to my mailing list to receive my latest blog posts.
Commemorating and Understanding Jewish Heritage in Warsaw
To honour this rich history and the unimaginable losses of the Holocaust, I visited several key sites in the Polish capital that offer deep insight into the Jewish experience in Poland. Each location provides a powerful opportunity to reflect on the legacy of Poland's Jewish community and its enduring impact.
Read on to discover the POLIN Museum, the Jewish Ghetto Memorial and the Miła 18.
POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews (Muzeum Historii źydów Poliskich POLIN)
Situated on the site of the former Warsaw Ghetto, the POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews is a must-visit for anyone seeking to understand Jewish history in Poland. The exhibits are highly interactive and comprehensive, covering 1,000 years of Jewish life—from the medieval era to contemporary times. The museum explores cultural, social, and political developments, offering insights into both flourishing periods and moments of persecution.
It’s easy to spend several hours here, as the museum’s layout and multimedia displays are both engaging and informative. For visitors who need a break, there’s a café and restaurant on-site. The POLIN Museum is an essential destination for anyone wanting to appreciate the breadth and depth of Jewish history in Poland.
Jewish Ghetto Memorial (Pomnik Bohaterów Getta)
Located near the POLIN Museum, the Jewish Ghetto Memorial stands as a tribute to the heroes of the 1943 Warsaw Ghetto Uprising. Created by Nathan Rapoport in 1948, this powerful monument marks the site of the uprising of the Warsaw Ghetto first armed clash. It symbolizes resistance and the determination to fight for dignity amidst the horrors of Nazi oppression.
Facts About the Warsaw Ghetto uprising
The Warsaw Ghetto Uprising was a significant act of Jewish resistance during World War II, taking place from April 19 to May 16, 1943. Faced with the imminent threat of deportation to Nazi extermination camps, the Jewish inhabitants of the Warsaw Ghetto, led by Mordecai Anielewicz the leader of the Jewish Combat Organization (ŻOB) and Yitzhak Zuckerman, a prominent member of the Jewish Military Union (ŻZW), staged a courageous revolt against the German forces. The Germans initially planned to liquidate the ghetto in three days, but despite being heavily outnumbered and outgunned, the fighters managed to hold off the Nazis for nearly a month before the uprising of the Warsaw Ghetto was brutally suppressed. The Germans, led by SS-Brigadeführer Jürgen Stroop, systematically destroyed the ghetto block by block using flamethrowers, tanks, and heavy artillery, resulting in the death of approximately 13,000 Jews.
If you are finding this post interesting, remember and subscribe to my mailing list to receive my latest blog posts.
The Miła 18 Memorial
The Miła 18 Memorial in Warsaw is a significant site dedicated to the memory of the Jewish fighters who participated in the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising. Located at Miła 18 Street, this memorial marks the spot where the headquarters bunker of the Jewish Combat Organization (ŻOB) was situated. The bunker was discovered by the Nazis on May 8, 1943, and many of the fighters, including the commander Mordechai Anielewicz, chose to commit suicide rather than surrender. The memorial consists of a grass mound and an obelisk with the names of 51 Jewish fighters inscribed on it.
Read on to discover the Jewish Historical Institute, the Umschlagplatz Memorial, and the last remaining pieces of the ghetto wall.
Jewish Historical Institute (Zydowski Instytut Historyczny)
The Jewish Historical Institute is a vital resource for understanding Jewish life before and during the Holocaust. A short documentary about the Warsaw Ghetto sets the tone for a moving exploration of the upper-floor exhibits, which include artwork by Jewish artists from 1890 to 1940, most of whom were lost during the Holocaust.
The building itself has historical significance, having survived the destruction of the Warsaw Ghetto, including the bombing of the Great Synagogue nearby. The preserved fire damage at the entrance serves as a poignant memorial. The institute also houses the renowned Ringelblum Archive, a remarkable collection of documents from the Warsaw Ghetto.
Umschlagplatz
This solemn marble monument commemorates the 300,000 Jews who were rounded up and deported to concentration camps from this location. While the original buildings no longer exist, the Umschlagplatz site remains an essential place of remembrance. The monument, designed by Hanna Szmalenberg and Władysław Klamerus, includes inscriptions of victims’ names, underscoring the scale of the tragedy.
If you are enjoying this post, remember and subscribe to my mailing list to receive my latest blog posts.
Fragment of the Ghetto Wall
A small but significant remnant of the warsaw ghetto wall that once encircled the Warsaw Ghetto provides a tangible connection to this tragic period. Tucked away in a courtyard off Złota Street, it can be challenging to locate due to minimal signage. To fully appreciate this site, a basic understanding of Warsaw Ghetto history is recommended, as on-site information is limited. This fragment serves as a sobering reminder of the isolation and suffering endured by the Jewish community during the Nazi occupation and acts as tangible evidence of the Warsaw Ghetto today.
The Pawiak Prison Museum
The Pawiak Prison Museum is a poignant historical site that commemorates the atrocities committed during the German occupation from 1939 to 1944. Established in 1965, the museum is built on the foundations of the original prison, which was destroyed by the Germans in 1944. Visitors can explore reconstructed cells, including quarantine and death cells, and view original equipment, poems, diaries, and secret messages from prisoners2. The museum also features symbolic sculptures and monuments, such as the Monument Tree of Pawiak, a bronze replica of an elm tree where families of victims have placed epitaph plates since 1945. The Pawiak Prison was a significant site during the Holocaust, with approximately 100,000 prisoners passing through its gates, many of whom were executed or sent to concentration camps. The museum serves as a powerful reminder of the suffering endured by the prisoners and the resilience of those who fought against oppression.
The Jewish Cemetery
The Jewish Cemetery, located on Okopowa Street, is one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in Europe, established in 1806. It spans 33 hectares and contains over 250,000 marked graves. The cemetery is a poignant reminder of the vibrant Jewish community that once thrived in Warsaw. Visitors can see a variety of gravestones, from simple markers to elaborate mausoleums, reflecting the diverse backgrounds of those buried there. The cemetery also includes mass graves of victims from the Warsaw Ghetto, making it a significant site for Holocaust remembrance. Despite the destruction during World War II, the cemetery remains active and serves as a historical archive of Warsaw's Jewish heritage.
If you are finding this post interesting, remember and subscribe to my mailing list to receive my latest blog posts.
Conclusion
Visiting these sites is a powerful way to engage with history, offering a deeper understanding of the Holocaust's impact on Poland's Jewish community. Each location tells a unique part of the story and serves as a reminder of the resilience of the human spirit. These destinations are essential for anyone seeking to connect with Poland’s complex and deeply significant Jewish heritage.
Where to Stay
When visiting these sites in the former ghetto, I stayed at the Ibis Warszawa Stare Miasto, which was just a couple of minutes walk from the Umschlagplatz memorial and handily positioned to walk to the other sites detailed in this post.
In keeping with being a vibrant European capital city, there are plenty of hotels to choose from, with many being within walking distance of this historic area. For a touch of luxury the Hotel Bristol, A Luxury Collection Hotel fits the bill, as does the splendid Hotel Bellotto. For more moderate or economy options consider the Leonardo Royal Hotel Warsaw, or the Hotel Mazowiecki WOW.
Further Reading
Related Blog Posts
If you would like more information on the dark history of the concentration camps of The Holocaust and how to visit these sites, please view the Tailor-Made Itineraries posts below:
Comment below and let me know about your experiences of the concentration camps of The Holocaust.
Don’t forget that Tailor-Made Itineraries creates bespoke self-guided tours. So, if you would like to visit the concentration camps of The Holocaust, reach out to me by email. I would be more than happy to design a self-guided tour around your requirements incorporating these historic sites, or indeed, a general tour of Poland.
Tailor-Made Itineraries posts every two weeks, and you can subscribe to the latest blog and newsletter here. Until then, happy reading and safe travels.
Barry
Contact Me: tailoritineraries@gmail.com
Tailor-Made Itineraries creates one-of-a-kind bespoke self-guided travel itineraries for adventurous and curious travellers.
These self-guided tours deliver a personalised and exciting holiday experience that takes the effort out of trip planning.
Map of the Warsaw Ghetto
